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#20472 - 04/16/10 12:54 PM Re: Randall "ordering" questions * [Re: Captain Chris Stanaback]
Ed_T Offline
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Registered: 06/11/09
Posts: 289
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Quote:


Please make sure you send your handle material, sized to the proper dimensions for the "new" order. Hope this helps...
Best, Capt. Chris




This brings up an ordering question that I have been meaning to ask...

If I understand correctly, the specified dimensions are "minimums" with acceptable variation being no more than 1/8". This sounds like "proper dimensions" are only those up to 1/8" larger than spec.

However, I have also been told that acceptable variation is up to 1/8" either way. So for example, a micarta block that is 1-1/4" instead of 1-3/8" could still be considered proper.

Which is correct - only 1/8" larger or 1/8" either way ?

Thanks for your help Capt'n.
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#20473 - 04/16/10 01:13 PM Re: Randall "ordering" questions [Re: Ed_T]
lunde Offline
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The 1/8" variation is larger, not smaller. I include a table in the Randall Ordering FAQ that covers this, specifically Item I-4. See: http://lundestudio.com/RandallOrderingFAQ/I/4.html
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#20474 - 04/16/10 01:30 PM Re: Randall "ordering" questions [Re: Ed_T]
Captain Chris Stanaback Offline
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Registered: 09/14/05
Posts: 12886
Loc: Central Florida
It's a good practice to stay right on the cookie jar, but a tad over is OK. I would be careful with stuff that's tough on equipment, i.e. Orange "G-10" for example. The shop frowns on having to whittle this stuff anymore than they have to.
Best, Capt. Chris
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#20475 - 04/16/10 03:07 PM Re: Randall "ordering" questions [Re: Captain Chris Stanaback]
Ed_T Offline
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Thanks Capt'n and Ken.

I appreciate your help (as well as your patience).
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#76057 - 04/23/10 09:24 PM Re: Randall "ordering" questions [Re: Captain Chris Stanaback]
pigman08 Offline
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Registered: 04/02/10
Posts: 49
Loc: Knoxville, Tennessee
Hello Capt. Chris,

First time posting, so go easy. I've been reading this thread 'til my eyes hurt and I haven't seen this specific question covered, but I'm guessing that the answer will be "no": Is a Model 14 available available w/ the CDT and saw teeth/no saw teeth grind? I've read that saw teeth are not available on a CDT, but I wasn't sure if that means that the saw teeth grind is not available or if the actual saw teeth are not available. As I said, I'm guessing that the grind is not available, but I had to ask to make sure... I think that a 14 w/ the saw teeth/no saw teeth grind and a stag handle would look f'n amazing.

Thanks,

Mike
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Mike "Pigman" Hatcher

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#76059 - 04/23/10 10:17 PM Re: Randall "ordering" questions [Re: pigman08]
tomthbomb Offline
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Loc: Deep East Texas
Originally Posted By: pigman08
I've read that saw teeth are not available on a CDT

At one time I owned a #1 with a micarta grip (cut down tang) that had saw teeth.
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Tom Welch
RKS #4868

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#76068 - 04/24/10 07:44 AM Re: Randall "ordering" questions [Re: Captain Chris Stanaback]
pigman08 Offline
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Registered: 04/02/10
Posts: 49
Loc: Knoxville, Tennessee
Originally Posted By: Captain Chris Stanaback
Joshua, buddy: How are you going to get a leather handle "without" a "CDT"? O.K.: From the beginning:
A Model #14 is available with a full, "exposed", tang. That means that the handle material "has" to be micarta, G-3 or G-10. No other material is available "slotted" so the full "exposed" tang can run through it.
Now A Model #14-7 1/2" "CDT" has a "reduced" hilt and therefore you can get leather, wood, stag, ivory, etc., etc..."BUT" you cannot get "sawteeth".If you want a Randall knife with a leather handle "and" sawteeth your choices are:
Model #1...Model #5...Model "Combat Companion". That's your "only" cloices.
Best, Capt. Chris


I guess I should have given a complete description of what I've got in mind:

#14-7 1/2" CDT
Saw Teeth/No Teeth Grind
Tooled Carbon Steel
Stag Handle
Single Nickel/Silver Hilt
Black & Aluminum Spacers
Finger Grips

Capt's quote mentions that saw teeth are not available on a #14 CDT, but what I'm wondering is if the saw teeth grind is available w/ out the teeth on a #14 CDT... Like I said, I'm guessing "no", but I had to ask

Thanks,

Mike

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#76077 - 04/24/10 11:08 AM Re: Randall "ordering" questions [Re: pigman08]
Captain Chris Stanaback Offline
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Registered: 09/14/05
Posts: 12886
Loc: Central Florida
"Pig" & "Bomb",
Good question. Yes: I'll be gentle. To fully understand this answer you need to look at the differences in some blade grinds. First of all: The answer is "NO"...You cannot get a sawteeth/No sawteeth grind on a #14 (or #15) "CDT".
The blade shape and forging is generally the same on both forgings with or without the teeth. That forging is only done on full, exposed tang models. The ability to get sawteeth (and NST) on a Model #1 or #5 is because those teeth are cut into and worked into that style of blade, hence the differences in them. Quite often one Model #1's sawteeth will appear to be quite a bit different than another Model #1. I don't just mean the "size" of the teeth but location, etc. The #14's and #15's are more consistant.
I will tell you one of coolest knives to order is a 6" or 7" Model #5 with the "NST" option. That may be an alternative to what you are looking for. Sorry: I cannot find an example to post a photo of, but perhaps somebody else has one...If not: Sounds like another "build" for the future. Any: I hope this explanation helps.
Exceptions? Yes: There have been in the past. I suspect they came from a broken tang of something along those lines, but that is "purely" speculation on my part. It would make sense that, if a "NST" blade forging had an improperly forged or shaped full exposed tang, the #14 room would salvage the blade and make up a "CDT" out of it...Just a guess.
Other exceptions? Well: Not really. "BUT" (There's that word again) take a look at a "Combat Companion" (The old RKS club knife) and you will most assuredly see a very close resemblance to a CDT #14 with NST grind. I understand that it is only a 5" blade...but it's a close design.
Best, Capt. Chris
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#76095 - 04/24/10 01:53 PM Re: Randall "ordering" questions [Re: Captain Chris Stanaback]
pigman08 Offline
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Registered: 04/02/10
Posts: 49
Loc: Knoxville, Tennessee
Originally Posted By: Captain Chris Stanaback
"BUT" (There's that word again) take a look at a "Combat Companion" (The old RKS club knife) and you will most assuredly see a very close resemblance to a CDT #14 with NST grind. I understand that it is only a 5" blade...but it's a close design.
Best, Capt. Chris


Capt,

That's actually exactly what I was thinking last night if the options that I had suggested weren't possible... I was looking @ the Knife of the Week thread for the CC and saw a couple that really got my attention and are close to the config/look that I'm interested in (Tom, one of 'em was yours @ post #40944!)... In fact, I think I like the look of the added thumb grooves/notches as well... Thanks for confirming what I had already suspected, and I'm looking forward to learning alot more about RMK's thru this great resource.

Mike
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RKS #5939

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#76597 - 05/06/10 04:04 PM Re: Randall "ordering" questions [Re: pigman08]
shadowfax Offline
Just dropped in

Registered: 05/06/10
Posts: 9
I'm a little confused on using customer supplied material and how many options it uses. For example, on a #1 knife, say 7", which normally comes with stacked leather handle, if I order that knife with shop-supplied Ironwood, then I know that it will use one of my 5 chargeable options. However, if I find a nice piece of burl-wood to use, does that cost me only one or is it two options? Is it one option for the customer supplied material, and another option to switch from leather to wood?

The same question for using real silver spacers from silverknife. Is it one option to switch to metal spacers and another to use customer furnished material?

What would the factory costs be for the two options above?

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