OK:
I'll say it "one more time"...It "DOES" take away from the slicing. #6 grind was designed for slicing. Apparently, (& I don't care) the original #7 grind lines appeal to some. That's great and it may, very well, be the blade we decide on. But please, crew, don't make your decision on improper thinking.
Thanks, Capt. Chris
PS: Here's how we started this build. many pages ago...CCS
"Welcome everyone!
We are going to spend a couple of weeks building a Randall knife 'FOR THE PURPOSE OF USING IT AS A FISHING KNIFE'! I have no idea what twists-n-turns this build will take, but I know what the knife "won't be". It is probably best to start with that. RMK models that we need not consider are:
* Model #1's
* Model #2's
* Model #5's
* Model #9's
* Model #11's
* Model #12's
* Model #13's
* Model #14's
* Model #15's
* Model #16's
* Model #17's
* Model #19's
* Model #23's
* Model #24's
* Model #25's
* Model #27's
* Model #28's
Besides these catalog models, there are a few non-catalog models that just won't work well. They are:

* Model #12-9", #14 grind
* Model #16, Special Fighter
* Combat Companion
* Fireman
* Sergeants
* Gamblers
* Chefs
* Cattleman
* #4-6-"Fighter"

stainless steel with #6 grind

SS, #6 grind

OM1, #6 grind (save an option)

I have to "pickle" a #7-4 1/2" (leather) for a customer. I could always do another one...
Best, Capt. Chris

Carbon steel, #6 grind

Stainless, #6 grind

Carbon and #6 grind.

Pap

So, it's a possibility that we end up building a "Captain's custom pickled" fishing knife?? Maybe even with handle material from "the stash"??

Carbon, #6 grind

Sticking with stainless!!!!!