Yes, many go for too hard to keep the edge. Or too hard for buyer and uses. A good birch carver which holds an edge forever may not be the knife to pound crossgrain through dried oak.

One should discuss uses with a smith before buying, to make sure that smith makes a knife compatible with user, or is willing to do so, if changes needed.

Marko actually adept at Silversteel/Bohler Uddeholm K510, 80CrV2 (no idea if Bohler Uddeholm B400, or PN NcV1, or ?, which can make a difference depending on batch and supplier, all 80CrV2 is not equal and why he Rockwell tests), also a stainless which I did not look into in detail, and likewise damascus which also I could not say one way or another if he forges it himself or not. Steel type dependent on knife and customer requirements.

All that interests me are more traditional. He is making me a WWII/Winter War reproduction 175mm blade Major Tommi (think Finland version of a Randall Model 1 as for national fame) as close as to what was used then as possible, so it will have the oiled raita root burl handle as typical at that time. I could have gone for the Marine/Commando Jääkäri Tommi also used, but a 205mm blade is getting to be a Japanese Tanto by then, which I already have (again, similar rhomboid cross section). And another one of these 100mm Moose versions identical in every way but with more typical/traditional clean upper grind.

There is a story behind Kainuun always putting the stamp on "wrong" side of blade for Finland, but I cannot recall details, and it is driving me nuts. But not nuts enough to bother busy Marko and slow down my knife and everyone else's simply to get an answer.

English is very hard for him, and google-translate is a joke for English/Suomi and makes for very funny reading in trying to study from original sources. Even worse than you-tube captioning.