As for ARG marked knives, I bought one of their Harry Archer inspired chute knives, as there is a familial connection. A Taiwan knife. Clip grind was horrible and wandering. It was returned. The replacement was just as bad. Already out $24 in shipping, I took the refund. Sadly, same bad clip job on the USA made Sandbox Bowie, but I kept the replacement for the DM1 steel....all fixed blades and off topic, but, germane to any AGR marked product.

As to the folder linked, am quite struck by how small diameter the screws holding the entire thing together. The screws and spacers are all which adds rigidity to a box open on top and bottom, or a weak keel of a canoe or frame to a convertible-topped automobile, whatever metaphor preferred.

So I was very lucky...
I had 3 pcs from AGR - one hunter



and 2 slipjoints something like Carl Schlieper Solingen
model Sodbuster, but China or Taiwan (I do not remember exactly).

The screws really seem outwardly weak,
but it will only show in the exploitation,
unfortunately, since my Chinook II also does
not seem to have the biggest screws,
but it is very durable

Hey, if it holds up, it holds up, and no argument here. I simply distrust folders for strength, even with closed back, as one side is open, inviting flexing.

Any flexing can deform locking surfaces through too much engagement pressure, and then also partially or fully unlock a knife twisted the opposite direction. Batoning far worse as lock not held in engagement by hand pressure.

Open back knives flex even more, period. And liners or frame locks twist right along with rest of frame.

So, I buy the stiffest, strongest built which I can find, with thick scales, larger screws, flared spacers for maximum contact both sides.

And yet, still they flex. Pry with a frame lock and watch the lock bar seat deeper or shallower, and perhaps get stuck, with prying loose with a screwdriver rather than re-flexing the knife to free the lockbar instantly adding years of wear.

Paranoid, perhaps, but I still have all my fingers.

Here is my Spartan Harsey folder, it seems tough but I haven't used it, the spacers are wider where they contact the scales which is good. This has been very interesting to me

Peter

Update on the Mike Franklin folder.

Going back through my records, I see that the actual period when Mike made this knife was 1988, not in 1980-1981 as memory had it.

Also, doing a bit of research online, Bernard Levine reported in 1997 that Michael Walker used a détente on his liner lock in 1984 (see: http://www.knife-expert.com/liners.txt ). Reaching out to Walker via his website I sent a message asking when he first used a détente on his liner lock but have not received a reply.

Looking further, I find a patent that included the ball détente was issued to Michael Walker with Buck Knives as the assignee in 1989. See: https://patents.google.com/patent/US4896424.

So…I am left to wonder a couple of things.

To wit, just when Walker actually came up with the détente as a feature on his liner lock mechanism? If it was before my conversation with Mike Franklin in about 1988, why was Walker’s design not patented until 1989. Perhaps he filed much earlier, but it took some years for the patent to be issued.

And…if Walker’s solution was before Mike made the knife I own…did Mike not already know (in 1988) that Walker had found a way to keep the blade with the liner lock mechanism from slipping open accidentally? Or did Walker not make known his design with the détente pending the issuance of his patent?

I don’t anticipate that this will be resolved unless Walker were to come forward and give a sure date or time period for first using the détente, and whether his détente feature was generally known before the patent was issued.

In any event, for whatever interest, here are photos of the 1988 Mike Franklin knife with the ball détente retention mounted through the front bolster of the knife. The slotted screw just behind the pivot is the one that adjusts tension on the ball détente.

Larry, this is very useful information for thinking, thank you!

Strange, for several months now I do not see Lofty,
anyone know where he is???

I received the package today, she rode for a very long time.
Now all the parts together! Here are some good knives.
As I promised, I will make a complex comparison with some hard tests.
Preparation will take some time, hope this will be useful for someone.

Hinderer gave me Lofty, absolutely new, thank you!
Strider SnG and Emerson Commander Mini I bought on ebay,
they are worn outwardly, but the mechanical part
is in perfect order.


upd.

On Strider was made a regrind to slightly tweak the geometry of the blade,
which was altered via previous sharpening

An interesting moment that is not listed on the site of Hinderer (in any case, I did not find it, but I see it with my own eyes and in many forums this is indicated) - working part of the lock plate (If the steel plate is not installed, as on the model Firetac) covered with something very durable, most of the opinions that it is tungsten carbide. This explains the fact that the stop plate at Strider wears off and Hinderer not wears off and the damage is obtained by the blade shank. The photograph shows a stain on the stopper plate in a more opaque color

I found another interesting video, good knife



But with my Spyderco Slysz I would be more careful,
it is much thinner and can break where the hole

There is! Now we can continue the full test.

I had to sell the previous XM24 because of some family circumstances + S35VN steel was prone to multiple microchips - when you cut contaminated materials where there are particles of sand or other stone dust, chips are formed that need to be ground for a long time + this steel is not very good with rough abrasives. With a quick rough grinding, teeth form on the cutting edge, these teeth cut aggressively, but because of the brittleness of the steel, it quickly breaks off and the knife must be sharpened again. Here we see an older version. There are no inscriptions on the blade, so I had to write to Hinderer and he indicated S30V steel.

Now I see at many Hinderer dealers that they sell more versions with M390 / 20CV. It is good, it is more durable

Desert Snake--

I have carried a beater Benchmade Griptillian for years. It has 154CM steel, and won't hold an edge worth sharpening.

Looking at their customer service, they will replace the blade for a fee.

The newer steels that they offer for this knife include S30V and 20CV.

The chart in their catalogue shows 20CV as having superior edge holding and corrosion resistance, but not being as tough or strong as the S30V. However, since I am more concerned about edge retention I think I will get a new blade using the 20CV.

However, I wonder if you have seen ANY chipping of the 20CV edge?

Larry