I cannot figure any way to "post-in-photos" the process..."BUT"...I can try and explain it. Here goes:
When I was runnin' the boats, I would "task myself" with keeping the knives sharp. Old Forschner re-grinds, mostly, they required a very "very" low angle to sharpen. Of course, I cared not what scratches may occur on those blades..."&" that low angle meant a lot more trips to the steel to re-sharpen.
RMK's? A totally different story. The bevel is quite "thick", requiring the maintaining of a 16-20 degree angle. Be it steel-or-stone-or ceramic sharpening device, the "angle" is the 1st key in sharpening these RMKs we love so much.
NO WRIST movement when sharpening! Steady, continual and in the same motion wins the day. Consider your arm, wrist and hand an extension of the knives, keeping them as one. The steeper the angle (20 degrees for example) the less re-sharpening will be required. This comes at a price in that the actual "cuts"-n-"slices", i.e. are not as "surgical". When filleting fish, etc. a lesser degree of angle will produce the results you are looking for.
When we have a "doe" day or "youth" day at the hunting camp, a good many whitetails need processing. The angle is not as critical but still needs to be maintained. Speaking of "maintaining", you must maintain your sharpening devices as well.
I use vinegar (white) and hot soap,water and a stiff brush to clean the longitudinal lines on my steel. My big "shop stones" (Nordic, tri hone) requires less but it is wise to wipe and re-oil them every so often. Ceramics: Hot soap and water as well.
The "chefs" on TV whip those blades quickly on their steels and make it look effortless. Again, low angle sharpening lends itself to this method of sharpening. "NOT"...for RMK's!
Hope this helps,
Capt. Chris
PS: This upcoming hunting season I'll try and get someone to photograph some of this procedure. I will pin this topic so we can all add, subtract or amend it as time goes on and allows...CCS

Thank you Captain
I have less than minimum success with my sharpening skills.
Craig

On smaller knives, I get good results using the Spyderco Sharp Maker with its ceramic stones. The two angles they are set for match up with Capt. Chris's recommendations.

Even with the stones held at a consistent angle, it still takes practice to hold the blade at a consistent angle as I draw it down the stones.

The short length of the stones makes it a bit difficult to do longer blades...I run out of stone before the full blade length can be drawn down to the bottom.

I probably need to go back to their video online to watch how they recommend sharpening longer blades.

Larry

Regarding the Spyderco Sharpmaker, start here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB0r6GvESGg

I know a good, local knife sharpener....as Dirty Harry would say...."a man has to know his limitations"

:-)Rocky

It's really no that hard, Rocky.
Stay Sharp, Capt. Chris

Thanks Capt! Pictures would be great. Hanna on seems to be best for the people I've shared my rudimentary sharpening skills with. Even then there's still a fairly lengthy learning curve involved.

Do you find you need to find the exact angle the knife was sharpened at?? I know that's the goal, but (I know, that's your line Capt) I've found it helpful,especially for newer knife people, to find an angle that is repeatable for the person sharpening. Usually end up reprofiling, to an extent, without getting to carried away but the knives are typically at that point anyways

I use the exact angle, almost exclusively. If (on rare occasions) I need one lowered, I will usually chose a 3/16" stock knife, i.e.: Model #7, etc. The thinner blade stock simplifies my life!
Stay Sharp, Capt. Chris

Stropman bought at Blade 6 years ago. Hone them all after light touch-up on fine stone with mineral oil.

Tom Flynn

Knife steel