I keep my knives in a safe, in a box or plastic container in the safe.
Each wrapped in paper or the shop tissue, or in a fabric case.
I just pulled two out after a year, and one had a few brown spots on the blade, polished with flitz and spots are gone.
Another knife had black spots on it and flitz didn't remove the spots.
These are 3 or 4 years new and not stainless.

My questions are: what can remove the black spots? should I coat all of them with something? is paper bad to wrap them with?

THANKS for any information

Look into acid-free paper.

If you have a comic book shop in your area they most usually carry acid-free cardboard for collectors to back comics.

I buy a package of 100 whenever needed then fold and tape it to make a custom sleeve for each blade I store. I also give the blades a light coat of Renaissance wax before inserting in the sleeve.

I find the effort to be worthwhile.

rimfire

Another tip I offer will ruffle a few feathers I think.

That blue green stuff that seems to come with older knives should be removed. It is called verde gris (ver-duh-gree) and it is destructive of metal and leather. Not only that but it is a poison. I wash my hands thoroughly after removing it from the knives I buy and I absolutely keep it away from eyes, nose and mouth.

I generally use a wooden toothpick to work the gunk out of snaps and rivets. Sometimes an electric, rotating toothbrush can get most of it off the blade AND the sheath. It is worth every bit of the effort and will keep your snaps, rivets and leather from deteriorating. It won't happen overnight but you won't have to look very far to find sheaths with corroded, disintegrating snaps and rivets.

It's advisable to remove it from blades and guards as well even though many collectors want knives as found. I figure why watch my investment deteriorate any further. Each collector has to decide for him/her/theirself. (How's that for politically correct?) ;-)

rimfire

Renaissance wax is an excellent protectant. I have also used Russell's silicone protectant Rust Free to protect carbon steel blades. Both have been good for me.

A mistake I made with a non-RMK knife, with an O1 tool steel blade.

I had a note with it printed on plain computer printer paper.

In a zipper case for about a year.

Pulled it out and the side of the blade in contact with the paper is totally rusted.

Chemicals in whatever comes into contact with steel will affect the steel.

That includes so-called stainless steels...left in sheaths thinking they will not react to whatever chemicals are in the leather. Stainless deserves wiping down with a Sentry Tuff Cloth or other surface protection just in case.

Flitz and Simichrome both can help to restore the surface but will not remove true pits.

Also, depending on the nature of the rust...4-O or 0000 steel wool and gun oil are used to clean light rust from blued guns, without taking off the bluing. Again, this will not remove true pits in the steel but will clear off superficial rust.

Larry

I:
A) Either keep absolutely "nothing" on the blade
................OR.................
B) Ren Wax
......Period!
Best,
Capt. Chris
PS: As you might have figured out all on your own, I own more than a couple of knives. I have a couple of wooden-drawer-type cabinets and 3 safes, all with knives in them...Guns are separate issue. "NO" cases..."NO" fabric..."NO" paper...Etc. Etc...works 4 me....CCS

thanks for all the help so far.

what would be the best way to remove the black spots? is very fine steel wool safe? or is there a polish stronger than flitz?

and is getting a separate fabric case for each knife have any drawbacks on damaging the metal finish?

If it is a user knife, I think most of us would say just apply some light oil or other protection, and keep using it.

If it is safe queen, sorry to say it for a couple of reasons, the only way to restore a factory finish is to have the shop do it.

Re-do's probably are a hassle for them as it is for the custom makers I have dealt with, but they are considerate about doing it.

Larry